Friday 16 May 2014

Trinity Kitchen, Leeds

Trinity Kitchen opened its doors just over a year ago in the heart of Leeds’ new shopping mall on Albion Street. When visiting the city to shop, it’s now the first place I hit and that’s not just because it’s right next to the station! Trinity adds a much-needed string to Leeds’s bow in my opinion and I’m a big fan of the place. Local businesses must not enjoy seeing swathes of people heading there to shop but the centre houses almost all of the high street chains and it is tempting just to visit Trinity and then head back home. Of course, I try not to do this as I don’t want to miss other favourites, like the Corn Exchange, Kirkgate Market, Harvey Nichols and little boutique cafés and shops but when it’s a rainy Leeds day the temptation to skip these can get pretty strong.


Before I started the patisserie course, Leeds was relatively unexplored territory. I could tell you all about Benjamin Gott and Armley Mills, with a bit of Turner thrown in for good measure, but when it came to visiting the city, I’d always go to the same old shops and arcades, feeling a little underwhelmed before eating a stale bagel and snivelling back home on the train. When it transpired that I’d have to get the bus to the shiny Printworks college campus just outside of town, I panicked, looking up thousands of alternative routes and bus stop numbers, convinced I’d somehow get on a bus back to York by accident, or end up crying somewhere in the rain. I’m pleased to say that now, after nearly a full academic year, I can recognise actual numbers on actual buses (helped along by a patient course mate who is forced to get the bus with me).

Standing up all day in class is backbreaking sometimes so when the time rolls round to seven, an excited buzz spreads amongst us as we know it’s nearly home time! There are always last minute stragglers in the group, who manage every week to still have a huge pile of dishes waiting by the sink. Fabrice always cajoles us for not helping out but it’s rather half-hearted, so an early escape is often on the cards. I must admit that at times I feel selfish for leaving them behind, but hey, it’s not like we’re at the Somme, so straighten up and get your dishes done on time like the rest of us!

There’s time for a quick change out of our chef’s whites before the bus journey takes us into town and towards what can only be my most-looked-forward-to dinner-of-the-week at Trinity Kitchen. It’s hiding up on the top floor, right at the back behind Primark and it feels like an eternity walking there when hauling a suitcase of knives with tired feet. Higher-profile companies such as Carluccio’s, Wagamama and Yo!Sushi obviously got the best, most visible spots in the mall but it’s worth the walk.
The food hall has definitely gone in for the ‘chic warehouse’ look, with exposed brick walls and trashy neon signs, but it works well and doesn’t feel like you’ve just wandered into Ikea. The place is always busy, which I’m sure contributes a lot to the atmosphere; I’m not sure how impressive it would all feel if there were only five people in there! Permanent restaurants dominate the layout of the space, comprising of a mixture of styles and prices; they range from fish and chips, pizza, American ribs and burgers, to Vietnamese noodles, Mexican burritos and tacos, with a more upmarket champagne and cocktail bar thrown in for good measure.
Most often I find myself plumping for Pho, the Vietnamese noodle bar which a quick glance at its website shows that it has stores dotted across the South, but Leeds appears to be its first venture up North. Their rice noodles aren’t half bad, stir-fried with a choice of chicken, prawn, beef or tofu before being topped with chopped peanuts and chilli. I’m also fan of their mushroom spring rolls, deep-fried and salty, packed with rice vermicelli noodles and served with a spicy vinegar dipping sauce. Most recently I went for their chicken curry, which blew my head off it was so spicy, even though a friend had the same and was fine! The curry itself was delicious though; full of crunchy courgettes, mangetout, carrots and mushrooms with a creamy coconut sauce perfumed with lemongrass, fish sauce and fresh coriander.
What I like the most about Trinity Kitchen is the way it’s committed itself to the street food ethos. Once a month, new food vans park up alongside the permanent restaurants, so even if you’re a frequent visitor to the kitchen, there’s always something new to try. This past month I’ve spotted a tasty-looking hotdog stand, pulled pork and brisket sandwiches, cupcakes and Chinese style pancakes. The grilled cheese stall offering stilton, pear and walnut toasties with rosemary butter is definitely next on my list to try, so I’d better get down there fast before it’s gone!

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