Zesty Smoked Salmon and Broccoli Tartlets

On a recent trip to Scotland in which she raided a well-stocked farm shop, my Mum picked up a packet of smoked salmon trimmings. I’ve heard of them of course and just assumed they were cheaper because they were scraps, which is true but holy moley, they’re also as smoky as anything! As the outer parts of smoked salmon, trimmings are exposed to the full whack of smouldering woodchips in the smokehouse. I actually needed to soak ours in milk for an hour to reduce the pungency but after that they were good to go! The default recipe for trimmings seems to be paté; which has never appealed to me. Equally sacrilegious when it comes to smoked salmon is the prospect of a quiche; if you buy it smoked, you don’t cook it! Come on, people don’t buy whiskey to flambé, or stir caviar into a risotto, do they? However, with my trimmings so unbelievably strong I had to make an exception to my rule, labelling them “tartlets” in the hope of getting away with it. Plus, the salmon was actually on the turn and cooking it seemed to be the best option. I’m sorry most of my recipes deal with semi-rotten foodstuffs from the back of our fridge; that’s what cooking’s all about, isn’t it?
Makes 6-8 tartlets

For the Pastry:

150g plain flour

1 tsp skimmed milk powder (if you’ve got it)

50g butter

25g baking fat (or substitute butter)

¼ tsp salt

30-40ml cold water.

To make the pastry, rub the fat into the flour and skimmed milk powder (if using) in a large bowl until you have fine breadcrumbs. Stir in the salt (adding this sooner would tighten up the gluten strands) and then little by little add in enough water to bring the dough together. Knead lightly until you have a firm but pliable dough. If it’s too dry, add a little more water. Cover and leave to rest in the fridge for at least half an hour.

For the Filling:

Smoked Salmon Trimmings; about two handfuls

Milk, to soak

A handful of broccoli (enough to fill your tartlet tins), broken into small florets

300ml milk

Half a packet of cream cheese or two tablespoons of crème fraiche

2 eggs

Zest of 1 lemon

Black pepper

Nutmeg

1 handful cheddar cheese, grated

Parsley.

1)      First of all, put the salmon trimmings in a bowl and cover with milk. Set aside for half an hour.

2)      Prepare tartlet cases by greasing, then flouring lightly. Roll out your dough to just thinner than a £1 coin and press lightly into the tins. Leave the sides high to allow for more filling if the tins are a little shallow (like mine). Set aside in the fridge.

3)      Preheat your oven to 190˚.

4)      Steam the little broccoli florets for 5-8 minutes. I steamed it rather than boiled as I didn’t want any excess liquid in the quiche. Allow to cool and if a little watery, toss them in a teaspoon or so of plain flour, just to soak up the moisture.

5)      To make the savoury custard, measure out the milk and beat in the cream cheese or crème fraiche with a fork, followed by the eggs and lemon zest. Season well with nutmeg and pepper (remember the fish will be salty).

6)      Drain the smoked salmon trimmings, pat dry with some kitchen paper and finely slice or chop.

7)      To assemble the tartlets first place the empty tins on a baking tray. Then scatter in an even amount of the broccoli, followed by the smoked salmon. You can make them as roomy or packed as you like; the salmon won’t be overpowering now that it’s been soaked.

8)      Carefully pour over the savoury custard, making sure there’s enough to go round before you go back to top up any of the tins.

9)      Sprinkle over some parsley and a little cheddar cheese (this will help the quiches get a lovely golden colour) and cook the tartlets on the middle shelf for 25-35 minutes until crisp and well-coloured. Upend one briefly to see if it’s got an even, golden bake underneath before you take them out to cool on a wire rack.