Tuesday, 7 April 2015

Grissini Torino, aka Breadsticks

You can keep Jamie or Nigella; Keith Floyd will always be my TV food hero. He’s downright bonkers and always just on the wrong side of tipsy; I watched an episode once where he was so drunk after cooking for a Rugby team that he slipped and dropped their entire meal on the way to the dinner table. Classic. Normally you can only catch snippets of his amazing programmes squeezed in between live slots on awful Saturday morning cookery shows. During a moment of sluggish TV watching I was therefore lucky enough to catch ten minutes of Floyd on Italy last week. In between complaining, cooking outside a grotty restaurant for a bunch of even grottier looking locals and catching nothing on a miserable fishing trip, the great man had time to whip out a huge newspaper-wrapped parcel of breadsticks and sing their praises. According to Floyd, Napoleon liked his “Grissini Torino” so much that he sent a man to Turin every week to pick up a batch, which he ate every morning before battle. They looked so good and sounded so crunchy that I immediately had to scout around to find an appropriate recipe. At last there was a chance to employ my Italian Level 2 Reading Skills! Italians across the net seem in agreement; the dough must be spiked with a gummy, moreish spoonful of malt extract.

Makes around 30-40 slim breadsticks, or 20 thick ones.

Ingredients:
140ml water
25g olive oil
240g white bread flour
10-15g semolina
1 dsp malt extract
7g yeast
1 tsp salt

Method:
I make my dough in the breadmaker so the instructions will be based around that but if you want to have a bash by hand feel free to do so; for me, using the breadmaker leads to less washing up!
1)      Pour the water and oil into the base of your breadmaker pan.

2)      Scatter over the flour and the semolina.

3)      In separate corners of the pan drag the malt extract off the spoon (it’s sticky stuff), add in the salt, then make an indent in the middle of the flour –not as far down as the water- and add the yeast.

4)      Set the breadmaker to pizza dough setting if you have it (this takes around 50 minutes on mine) or to “dough” and sit back and let the machine do the work.

5)      Preheat your oven to 200˚C and put two large baking sheets in to heat up.

6)      When the cycle is complete, divide the dough in half and cover with a teatowel before setting to work cutting it up into pieces. The size of a small cherry tomato gets you a thin breadstick around 30cm in length. By dividing the mixture up into this size, you end up with between 30-40 pieces of dough but if you want thicker breadsticks I’d only cut up to 20 pieces.

7)      Once you have your dough divided, it’s time to get rolling! This is a pleasing activity, where you simply roll the dough into long, thin sausages with the palms of your hands flat against the board (think playdough rolling as a child). 30cm (i.e. a school ruler) is the length you’re after and the sticks should be as thin as a lady’s little finger (i.e. mine). Remember there’s yeast in these breadsticks so they do puff up; don’t worry if their pencil-thinness sets off alarm bells.

8)      I made one third of each sesame, poppy seed and plain breadsticks; if you want to do this too, the only thing that you have to remember is that you must incorporate the seeds right from the minute you start rolling. Scatter some seeds across your board and really mash them in when you begin to roll. For my first batch I just wet the sticks and then rolled them in the seeds, which of course fell off instantly after cooking- heed my words of caution!

9)      The breadsticks can go straight in the oven: there’s no need to prove, so arrange them on the preheated baking trays and give them around 15 minutes on the upper middle shelf, watching carefully, in case they catch. You want a nice even bake and uniform colour but what I found I needed to do was to put a “slice” of tinfoil over the tips of the breadsticks as the ends cooked much faster.

10)   The breadsticks are at their best when they turn a dark caramel and of course, they have to be absolutely cooked through to be crunchy! Test them by snapping a sacrificial breadstick; they may be the right colour but not “dried out” enough yet.

11)   Cook in batches and then cool on a wire rack.

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