Sunday, 20 July 2014

Chinese-style Pork Buns

When I was small we used to drive to Manchester and stop off at a little bakery up some steps in Chinatown. Inside there were glass-fronted displays of all kinds of sweet and savoury soft doughy buns, glazed and shining. We always bought something sweet with bean paste in it, which got thrown out after we’d taken one bite each in the back of the car but the star of our purchases was always the pork buns. The dough itself was sweet and pillowy soft but that filling! Tender roasted pork with honey and five spice. I didn’t know what char siu was back then but now I try to recreate those flavours every time I’m out of ideas with a piece of pork sitting in front of me. This time around I had a few pieces of pork belly to use up, so I felt that the time was upon me to try and recreate my Manchester favourite.
I made these during a thunderstorm, which no doubt created a good scoffing atmosphere but flash flood or no, they were just what I was hoping for. The recipe for the dough is an amalgamation of those found on the internet which I scribbled down into my notebook but the pork is flexible; I’ve made these buns with ginger-sesame chicken in the glory days of home-schooling and they tasted pretty delicious too, so feel free to experiment!

For the pork:

500g pork belly

1 ½ tsp. Chinese five-spice powder

Ginger (fresh or ground)

Garlic (fresh or powdered)

1 tbsp. rice wine

1 dsp. soy sauce

1 tbsp. hoisin/oyster sauce

1 dsp. oil (preferably sesame)

2-3 tbsp. honey

4 spring onions, sliced finely.

Method:
To make the pork, as you can see, I used anything I had to hand that felt suitable. At the end of the day, you’re making honeyed barbeque pork so don’t be afraid to just chuck in what you have. As long as there’s honey involved, it’s going to taste delicious. There are hundreds of different recipes for char siu out there and about as many methods of making it. Mine is probably as simple as it gets as I didn’t spend time marinating it- sometimes you just don’t have the patience!

1)      If the pork belly is in one joint, make sure to score the top and bottom to let in the flavours.

2)      Find an ovenproof dish that will hold the meat snugly and double-line it with tin-foil. Burnt honey is a pain to scrub off later.

3)      Preheat the oven to 170˚.

4)      Put the pork in the dish and sprinkle over the Chinese five-spice powder. Add in 1 tsp. ground ginger (or a grated thumb of fresh) and 1 tsp. garlic powder (or 2 crushed cloves).

5)      Pour over the rice wine, soy sauce, hoisin/oyster sauce and oil, then drizzle over the honey. Add in half a teacup of water, which should help the meat to steam a little and loosen the sauce.

6)      With a clean hand, massage these flavours into the meat (or to avoid stickiness use a sandwich bag as a ‘massaging glove’).

7)      Tightly cover the baking dish with tin foil and cook on the middle shelf for around two hours, or until the meat is soft enough to pull apart and the fat has rendered down.

8)      When the meat is tender, take it out of the oven and cut it up into little chunks.  Scrape out as much of the sauce as you can from the baking dish and pour this over the meat. If the mix is looking dry, add in a little bit extra of the ‘marinade’ ingredients along with a tbsp. or so of water, just enough so that the meat is glossily covered. Add in the sliced spring onions and set aside to cool.


For the dough:
10 tbsp. milk

4 tbsp. butter

2 tsp yeast

2 ½ tbsp. warm water

1 large egg

1 tbsp. sugar

350g bread flour

1)      Make the dough after you’ve got the pork in the oven. Firstly, put the milk and butter in a small saucepan and warm it enough to melt the butter. Set aside to cool slightly.

2)      While this mixture is cooling, combine the yeast with the warm water and leave for ten minutes to activate, until it begins to froth.

3)      In a large bowl, mix the sugar and flour together. Tip in the yeast and warm water, then whisk the egg into the cooled milk/butter and pour slowly into the flour, working the mixture with your hands until it comes together. Be careful not to add all of the liquid at once in case the mixture becomes too wet. You want it to be a “shaggy mass” stage.

4)      Tip the dough out onto a clean surface and knead for 5-10 minutes, until the mixture is soft and elastic.

5)      Once you’ve got to this stage, lightly oil the bowl and put the dough back in to rise for an hour or so, until it’s nearly doubled.

To assemble:

1)      Portion the dough in half, placing one back in the bowl and covering it to prevent it from drying out. Roll the other half into a sausage shape before dividing into eight equal pieces.

2)      Roll one piece into a ball with your hands, then use a rolling pin to flatten it into a circle about 2 ½ inches in diameter.

3)      Pick the dough disc up and place it in the palm of your hand. Deposit one heaped teaspoon of the pork mixture into the centre and bring the dough edges together to form a tight ball. This is best done by folding and pinching the edges in on themselves as you rotate the dough in your hand, almost as if they are petals. It doesn’t really matter if the balls aren’t airtight- a few of mine didn’t make the grade and exploded slightly, but as long as you try to get the ball as tight as you can, the majority of your buns won’t end up with their filling stuck to the baking tray.

4)      When the bun is complete, place it on a lined baking tray and cover with cling film to prevent it drying out.

5)      Repeat the process with the other 15 pieces of dough, making sure to portion out the meat accordingly.

6)      When you’ve finished, leave the buns on their baking trays under cling film to rise for half an hour, until they have puffed up ever so slightly.

7)      Preheat the oven to 190˚.

8)      Brush the buns with beaten egg before baking one tray at a time (this stops any slower-cooking buns underneath from exploding) on the middle shelf, for 15-20 minutes, until golden and hollow-sounding underneath when tapped.

 
9)      As a final touch, when the buns are hot, brush with a mixture of 1 tbsp. honey mixed with equal amounts of warm water; this will soften the buns and give them their characteristic gloss.
Eat the lot in under half an hour and lament the fact that these took so long to make, and so little time to demolish.

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