Sunday 24 August 2014

"Spanish" Paella

Not having set foot on Spanish soil, my experience of paella so far hasn’t been that great. A market stall in northern France does shine through in my memory; heaving with onlookers all ogling a steaming pan the width of a double bed, we fought our way through the crowd for a family-size portion of the stuff, studded with spindly langoustines, peppers and tomatoes. But of course that was good; I was ten for god’s sake and it was the holidays!


In general, UK farmer’s markets selling lukewarm and overly-salted stodgy rice or sloppy supermarket versions haven’t exactly tickled my taste buds. Obviously, I’m painfully aware that I haven’t yet tried the real thing; drop me off in a sleepy Spanish seaside village and point me in the direction of a bustling café by the beach and I’m sure paella and me would strike up a lasting friendship. But the cynical side of me doubts that sleepy village will be easy to find. It’s not the olden days; I can’t just walk out one midsummer morning à la Laurie Lee for a plateful, so once again I have to settle for what I imagine good paella tastes like. So here is my bastardised “armchair-traveller” version. Of course, paella is flexible; you can use whatever kind of white meat or shellfish you like, by all means use mussels, langoustines, snails… I used what we had, which unsurprisingly isn’t much in West Yorkshire but it still tasted delicious.


Serves 4 (with leftovers, so really 6)

Ingredients:
½ a chorizo (about 200g), diced roughly

1 large onion, chopped

400g long grain rice (controversially not paella rice; I used this once and it was too sticky for my liking but it’s up to you)
1 sachet paella seasoning (SHOCKER: it’s fine, it’s from Harvey Nicks. If without, use a tsp saffron soaked in a little warm water, then a bay leaf, a half teaspoon of garlic powder, sweet paprika and black pepper)

1- 1½ pints chicken or fish stock
2 medium tomatoes, chopped

1 red pepper
Paprika

250g diced chicken breast (or thigh)
350g/ 1 packet of mixed seafood (I defrosted a great Marks and Spencer’s mix of raw king prawns, calamari and queen scallops)

100g sliced artichoke hearts (I used jarred artichokes and the vinegary taste worked well with the fish)
A handful of frozen peas

Parsley
Lemon wedges, to serve.


Method:

1)      In a very large, dry frying pan sauté the chorizo until it begins to leak oil; at which point tip in the chopped onion and fry until soft.

2)      Wash some of the starch out of the rice by running it under the tap in a sieve for a minute or so, until the water begins to turn clear.

3)      Add the rice to the chorizo and onion and cook for a moment until the rice turns translucent and glossy. Then sprinkle over your sachet of spice mix (or the combination of spices listed above) and add the chopped tomatoes.

4)      Pour over enough stock to cover the rice by 1cm and then place on a lid to simmer. I always overcook rice but have found this method to be reliable. Test the rice every now and then for seasoning and to see if it’s cooked; if the pan is dry and the rice is still hard, pour over a little more stock. Repeat the process until you’re satisfied the rice is cooked but don’t stir it with a spoon or the residual starch will turn everything gummy- always use a fork.
Paella seasoning (fincaelmonte.com)

5)      While the rice is cooking, blacken the skin of the red pepper either under the grill or directly on a gas ring- when everything’s evenly coated, bung it in a sandwich bag to sweat. When cool enough to handle, scrape off the bitter skin, remove the seeds and chop into chunks.

6)      Sprinkle a teaspoon or so of paprika over the diced chicken before frying in a little oil until cooked through. Feel free to use cooked chicken if you have it.

7)      Combine the chicken, red peppers, artichokes and peas and scatter over the rice as it comes towards the end of its al-dente stage.

8)      As with the chicken, quickly fry off the raw seafood in a half teaspoon of paprika but whatever you do, don’t overcook anything; it’s safest to fry them only until the translucent-blue has worn off the prawns, before again scattering over the rice. The seafood will finish cooking atop the covered steaming rice and be lovely and tender.

9)      Finally, when the rice is cooked, dredge the dish with parsley and serve with a few lemon wedges.

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